Quick Tip: Strobes, like a continuous light source, correspond to changes in aperture settings. For example, if you increase your aperture from f/5.6 to f/11, you must increase your strobe output by two stops to maintain a consistent exposure.When working in direct sunlight or nearly dark sets, choose a 1000 w/s strobe over a 500 w/s. You will relish in the extra power. If a strobe is too powerful at its lowest setting, you can further decrease its needed strength by using neutral-density gels. In this particular photograph we used 1000 w. strobe at highest power to overpower the bright outdoor sun.

This was shot at F/8 @ 1/200 sec. using Canon 5D @ 24mm.


If I may add something. #2 sort of goes without saying. Stopping down 2 stops your either are going to be 2 stops under or your going to have to increase the power 2 stops from the light source in order for the exposure to be the same as before. I am sure most individuals even beginners will soon figure this out anyways while viewing their LCD. I think it may be more important to point these things below.

I would really like to point out that more than anything that may be important in purchasing a 1,000 watt unit over a 500 watt unit is that it will have short recycle times at 500 watt seconds than a 500 watt second head at full power. So that is a huge plus say shooting say a reception capturing several shots quickly like a bouquet toss or garter toss. Most importantly the flexibility of a 1,000 what head is a huge plus. You will be able tackle flash in “Daylight” on a bright day. You will be able to tackle a large group shot lighting a large room with that group. You say you love the kind of light which I like to call “Creamy” light. In order to get that kind of light quality properly out of softboxes is to use them “Correctly” with a bare tube head and a properly installed internal baffle inside a softbox. So many do not set softboxes up correctly to maximize them. They mistakenly place a parabolic shaped head facing right out the front panel. A softbox to work properly by the principle of its design is to utilize a bare tube head and have the light bouncing all around inside the white box “Prior” to going out the front panel. Producing the true soft light its capable of. .Now this is were having a 1,000 watt head also allows you to still keep up your power after that internal baffle sucks up some light and box itself eats up more light so you can keep your ISO down.

Also I like to point out with Profoto your not only getting what you pay for in color temps thru out the power output of the flash head your getting a “True” 1,000 watt seconds of power. Many other manufactures really “Juice” their watt seconds ratings unfairly “In gain sales” “Much like the megapixel specs sheets are very over rated”. The other reason you get what you pay for is “Durability” that can take day in and day out abuse and use. Dont take my word for it just go to any “Rental” house and see what they rent for lights. When you do I am sure you will see black boxes with white letters behind the counter.

I would also like to say whats very important in using softboxes or umbrellas is how to properly “Feather” the light on the subject to get that velvety soft glow of light from the modifier. Many photogs unknowingly just point the softbox just directly at their subjects like a search light. I am more than willing to visually demonstrate this to you or anyone.

I enjoy video posts here on your blog the most.

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